Overall the Amazon was an amazing place where there are no
river banks, the tress just hang in the water, everywhere you turn are new a
wonderful creatures. The beautiful of this place is immense and even the giant
creepy crawlies have a place and beauty about them, Whenever you are on the
water you are escorted by brightly coloured birds and butterflies the echoes of
monkeys in the trees and the knowledge that in the dark water beneath you are
the anacondas, caimans, dolphins and manatees. In the jungle during the night
beyond the river backs are the numerous large cats, anteaters and other weird and
wonderful things. It is both what the jungle shows you and what it doesn’t that
make this place one of a kind that truly teases the senses.
The 7 hour bus ride across the Andes was well worth the $8
as it offered us spectacular views and hair raising driving. We arrived in Lago
Agrio in one piece and after a beer our nerves were somewhat settled. Every
review of Lago Agrio we read said to get to your hotel as soon as possible and
not leave until you are picked up from your tour company. We didn’t go anywhere
but from our pavement seats at the restaurants it didn’t seem that bad.
Monday morning we were picked up for our tour to Samona
Lodge, after the 2 ½ hour bus ride we arrived at the river in the POURING rain.
Luckily it cleared for our 3 hour cruise down the river to the lodge. We were spoilt on this first experience of
the Amazon sighting Red Howler Monkeys, Spider Monkeys, Gorilla Monkeys, Cocoi
(giant herons) and Anaconda.
The lodge was beautiful with lots of hammocks a suspended
walk way between rooms. The beds and bathrooms were better than I expected and
had some of the best hot water and pressure I have had in 4 months.
A trip to Laguna Grande in the evening where we swam in the
Amazon spotted pink river dolphins and watched the sun set was a perfect end to
the first day… not quite. We found that the tarantulas live in the roofs of
where we sleep and I got to hold one J
What can only be described as a mud run was on the cards for
day 2, it was part of the jungle trek… we were in mud up to our thighs, after
the initial shock of being covered in mud it was actually quite enjoyable. I
did my best attempt at washing my clothes in the river by hand much to the
amusement of F. A spot of piranha fishing proved very enjoyable but without
success for F and I but others caught some. What beautiful colourful fish.
The night jungle walk was one of my favourite parts of the
trip. Standing in the dark listening to the noises of the jungle was amazing.
It was black black and so noisy, it was such a special time to be with nature.
You can discover just how many bugs there are at night and just how big they
get.
The cultural activities that were planned for the next day
were interesting if somewhat touristy. A Shaman visit resulted in one member of
our group being treated by whipping stinging nettles across his back that
subsequently resulted in large welts and a very red back. However, it was
interesting to learn about evil spirits and the process to become a Shaman. At
the other village we met we made yucca pancakes from scratch (meaning digging
the plants out of the ground). A fascinating process of grating, drying,
cooking and eating the yucca.
WE set out for some exercise the next day, meaning canoe but
without motor – we have to paddle!!!! The Enchanted Lagoon is a protected area
of the reserve where motor boats aren’t allowed, so it was incredibly tranquil
to float through the reeds and listen to the sounds of the jungle from the
water. We tried our hand at piranha fishing again with no luck, lots of bits
and one hooked but couldn’t get it in the boat for the money shot that I so
desperately wanted!!!! The water in the lagoon is so black due to the high tannin
levels of the plants and the decomposition process, it made it quite strange
swimming in water like that with no buoyancy. Juan our guide is an interesting
sort with little to no vocal expression and a constant drilling of faster
faster while we were paddling made for a less than relaxing return to camp at
times.
The flight back to Quito on the final day was stunning, the
mountains are so close and thankfully for me the plane wasn’t too small so I
could look out the windows.
My Amazon check list
Red howler monkey
Spider monkey
Gorilla monkey
Caiman
Tucan
Cocoi
Pink river dolphin
Caintoad
Glassfrog
Tarantula
Condor
Anaconda
Kingfisher
Two toed sloth
Wood pecker
Hoatzin (smelly turkeys)
Owl
Piranhas
Cupachino spider
Scorpion spider
Ruby poison dart frog
Giant grasshoppers
Noisy nocturnal monkey
Long nosed bat
Tiger heron
Greater Ani
Yellow rumped Cacique
Firefly
Hawk
Red capped cardinal
Blue butterfly
Monk Saki Monkey
Dragonfly
Great Potoo
Flying Macaw
Pigme marmiquet
Woolly monkey
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