Friday, July 20, 2012

The Amazon Jungle - Cuyabeno Reserve


Overall the Amazon was an amazing place where there are no river banks, the tress just hang in the water, everywhere you turn are new a wonderful creatures. The beautiful of this place is immense and even the giant creepy crawlies have a place and beauty about them, Whenever you are on the water you are escorted by brightly coloured birds and butterflies the echoes of monkeys in the trees and the knowledge that in the dark water beneath you are the anacondas, caimans, dolphins and manatees. In the jungle during the night beyond the river backs are the numerous large cats, anteaters and other weird and wonderful things. It is both what the jungle shows you and what it doesn’t that make this place one of a kind that truly teases the senses.

The 7 hour bus ride across the Andes was well worth the $8 as it offered us spectacular views and hair raising driving. We arrived in Lago Agrio in one piece and after a beer our nerves were somewhat settled. Every review of Lago Agrio we read said to get to your hotel as soon as possible and not leave until you are picked up from your tour company. We didn’t go anywhere but from our pavement seats at the restaurants it didn’t seem that bad.

Monday morning we were picked up for our tour to Samona Lodge, after the 2 ½ hour bus ride we arrived at the river in the POURING rain. Luckily it cleared for our 3 hour cruise down the river to the lodge.  We were spoilt on this first experience of the Amazon sighting Red Howler Monkeys, Spider Monkeys, Gorilla Monkeys, Cocoi (giant herons) and Anaconda.

The lodge was beautiful with lots of hammocks a suspended walk way between rooms. The beds and bathrooms were better than I expected and had some of the best hot water and pressure I have had in 4 months.

A trip to Laguna Grande in the evening where we swam in the Amazon spotted pink river dolphins and watched the sun set was a perfect end to the first day… not quite. We found that the tarantulas live in the roofs of where we sleep and I got to hold one J

What can only be described as a mud run was on the cards for day 2, it was part of the jungle trek… we were in mud up to our thighs, after the initial shock of being covered in mud it was actually quite enjoyable. I did my best attempt at washing my clothes in the river by hand much to the amusement of F. A spot of piranha fishing proved very enjoyable but without success for F and I but others caught some. What beautiful colourful fish.

The night jungle walk was one of my favourite parts of the trip. Standing in the dark listening to the noises of the jungle was amazing. It was black black and so noisy, it was such a special time to be with nature. You can discover just how many bugs there are at night and just how big they get.

The cultural activities that were planned for the next day were interesting if somewhat touristy. A Shaman visit resulted in one member of our group being treated by whipping stinging nettles across his back that subsequently resulted in large welts and a very red back. However, it was interesting to learn about evil spirits and the process to become a Shaman. At the other village we met we made yucca pancakes from scratch (meaning digging the plants out of the ground). A fascinating process of grating, drying, cooking and eating the yucca.

WE set out for some exercise the next day, meaning canoe but without motor – we have to paddle!!!! The Enchanted Lagoon is a protected area of the reserve where motor boats aren’t allowed, so it was incredibly tranquil to float through the reeds and listen to the sounds of the jungle from the water. We tried our hand at piranha fishing again with no luck, lots of bits and one hooked but couldn’t get it in the boat for the money shot that I so desperately wanted!!!! The water in the lagoon is so black due to the high tannin levels of the plants and the decomposition process, it made it quite strange swimming in water like that with no buoyancy. Juan our guide is an interesting sort with little to no vocal expression and a constant drilling of faster faster while we were paddling made for a less than relaxing return to camp at times.

The flight back to Quito on the final day was stunning, the mountains are so close and thankfully for me the plane wasn’t too small so I could look out the windows.

My Amazon check list

Red howler monkey

Spider monkey

Gorilla monkey

Caiman

Tucan

Cocoi

Pink river dolphin

Caintoad

Glassfrog

Tarantula

Condor

Anaconda

Kingfisher

Two toed sloth

Wood pecker

Hoatzin (smelly turkeys)

Owl

Piranhas

Cupachino spider

Scorpion spider

Ruby poison dart frog

Giant grasshoppers

Noisy nocturnal monkey

Long nosed bat

Tiger heron

Greater Ani

Yellow rumped Cacique

Firefly

Hawk

Red capped cardinal

Blue butterfly

Monk Saki Monkey

Dragonfly

Great Potoo

Flying Macaw

Pigme marmiquet

Woolly monkey

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