Florianopolis

So a slight change of plan occured at the Iguazu bus station on the Brazilan side. We couldnt buy our bus tickets to Campo Grande in Argentina without paying double the price so we decided to see what happened when we got to the Brazilian side. After much discussion we decided that we would head to the beach instead. Another night bus and we arrived in Florianopolis.
We spent two nights here and did not really get to see what the island had to offer. We had both come down with the flu and spent a lot of time trying to recover in bed. The saving grace was that the weather was less than average, wet and grey and it was cold. It was a good place to rest and recover.
The highlight of our time here was out Sunday buffet lunch at Arante in Patano do Sol with the numerous notes on the wall left by travellers from mnay a time gone by. The notes started when people would come here to camp and they wanted to tell their friends where they were camping so left notes at the restaurants which is just on the beach as the boats would dock.

Montevideo

Uruguay you should be proud of your long distance bus system, they are clean, very comfortable and run on time.
Che Lagarto Hostel gave us an update to an ensuite room with no extra charge but the room was freezing. We arrived on a Sunday to find everything closed in town. It took us a while but we found one of the few restaurants that were open to have dinner. It was a really local place on the corner where I ordered the Ravioli as a change from the copious amount of steak I have been having over the last week. It was OK but the delighful addition was the identifable meat substances added into my sauce. Oh well, at least im not alergic to anything :)

On the Monday we headed to Mercado del Puerto which is a food/restaurnat market opposite the main ferry terminal in town. It was a meat fest.... We could hardly believe our eyes with the amount and size of the steaks on the grills. This was our place for lunch!!!! We found a prime spot in front of the grill and sat and watched the butcher come chef at work. As the orders came in he selected his piece of meat, chopped it if need be and wack it on the charcoals. The firewood burns at the back in a grill and once the charcoal forms it is dragged down under the grill. The chef was magic, so passionate about his meat with a wonderful smile. He would tell customers about the diffferent types of meat. I wish we knew more Spanish so we could tell what each cut was. I ordered and was delivered a one inch thick piece of meat that took up my whole plate, F had a giant chop thing. Both were cooked to perfection and melt in your mouth delicious. I could only manage half my steak so it was steak salad for dinner as well.

I was pleased to discover that Montevideo has good markets where it is not just the mass produced stuff found everywhere else so far in South America. Each of the stalls is attended to by the artist and goods range from clothings, jewellery, homeware and much more.

The Uruguayan buses continued to excel with out bus from Montevideo to Salto. It was direct and made only two stops in the outskirts of Salto. Once in Salto we couldnt connect with another bus to take us across the border so we had to jump into a taxi. Add that to the list of ways to cross a border.

Montevideo and Uruguay in general were lovely but would have been more enjoyable in the summer where you could get out and enjoy the outdoor activities and beaches on offer. We had unfortunate timing in that a polar blast had come through making things very cold. I do have to say though the steak is better than Argentina.

Colonia

We old smugglers town of Colonia is a delight to explore. Just an hour by quick ferry from Buenos Aires and we found ourselves amongst the cobbled streets. The border crossing by boat is new for us, I think we have notched up, walking, boats, planes and buses now.
We had our first experience of the Uruguayan Chivito sitting on the cobble stones in the sun. The Chivito (a steak sandwich with egg) was amazing however the coffee was average especially since it was the most expensive coffee of the trip so far. It is true what they say in that South America is Nescafe hell... I suppose they export all the good stuff.
We walked up the spiral staircases of the old lighthouse for a stunning view over the Plata towards Argentina. It was a very narrow walk up and the edge was very close once you got to the top.
We found a local Parilla restaurant for dinner where we were the only people and the whole family was there around the BBQ keeping warm. The grandmother kept offering us more bread, I think it was one of those occasions where we should have had more to be polite.
It is difficult to see if these towns how business survives through the off season. As although it was a Saturday it was very quiet.

Iguazzu

Before writing about Iguazzu I would like to say that Uruguay and Argentina have the best buses so far on our trip. They are business class size, you are served hot meals on them and they recline a lot further back than other buses we have been on.
The Argentina side of the is a wonderful system of paths that lead you to different waterfalls and viewpoints of the main falls. We choose to spend two days exploring the park and were not disspointed. I would also like to take this oppotunity to plug GoreTek jackets, I am a new wearer and aftter keeping nice a dry and warm on the Inca Trail I was pleasently surprised that the jackets can keep me dry under a waterfall!  We took the boat into the falls and were soaking wet but it was oh such a great time. The walkway out to the devils Throat is spectacular, it allows you to literally stand at the top of the waterfall with water gushing beneath you.
We stayed at a wonderful B&B called the Secret Garden hosted by John, the little touches of this place make it worth while. Drinks and nibbles at 7 - we could get use to this.

We were so impressed with the Argentina side that we werent going to go to the Brazil side, but we did and it was worth it. It provides the panaranomic view which is the seriuos money shot. Less walks but the overall view of the size of this waterfall is well worth it.

Buenos Aires

So we discovered that the trusty A320 can fly long distance after all - with views over the snow capped Andes we flew into Buenos Aires. So many people have told us how majestic this city is and how we will fall in love with it. Well our first reaction was it is bloody cold, the second being its bloody expensive. Putting these things in perspective... we have been living and travelling in the heat for the last 4 months and through Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador where things are super cheap.
We stayed at Back in BA Hostel in Palermo for 5 nights arriving on a Monday. Turns out that Monday is a super quiet day and as we wandered the streets looking for this vibe that so many go on about we found little going on and little open. I am pleased to say that as the week went on people came out and the vibe is indeed real. It is infections, you want to be part of it.
Buenos Aires is a wandering city, and wander we did. Thanks to a great friend who had drawn us some walking maps we went about making ourselves busy wandering. F has now decided to become a professional dog walker. We saw some guys with 12 dogs, and after they took the first bunch some where they came back to the park for more.
Highlights...
The different neighbourhoods, just so cool.
Recoletta Cemetary - its like a mini city, beautiful carved tombs everywhere with a street like network connecting them.
Anuva wine tasting - I treated F and I for a birthday present from mum and dad. It was a sensational evening where they went through the characteristics of Argentine wine with endless pours and matched tapa.
Milonga tango - as reccommended by our friend we went in search of La Cateral tango club and were not dissapointed. It is in a dungy old warehouse which has a certain class to it. We did not partake in a class but had a great time watching them while we sipped on our sangria.
Las Cabras - a classic dining venue where the meat is cooked right in front of you and is ohh so good.

Laguna Quilotoa

The spectacular crater lake of Laguna Quilotoa is a steep walk down and an agonising walk (read crawl) back up the 500m ascent. The bus ride was long and beautiful with some stops along the way that were less than average but the company included them just to brreak up the journey I think. The lake itself is stunning but the long bus ride and late return into Quito was not what we expected.

Cotopaxi

Cotopaxi in Ecuador’s second highest peak and one of the highest active volcanoes so we though it worth a visit. We had flown back to Quito from the Amazon the evening before and headed off early for Cotopaxi. After driving to 4500m we walked the remaining 300m in altitude in just over 1km. I was really struggling with the altitude and was very dizzy and nausea so decided to sit out the final 500m assent to the base of the glacier. So while I sat in the café sipping on hot tea, F went off with the rest of the group to the glacier. It was quite a change from the days in the jungle, both the climate and altitude but was spectacular none the less. Literally and metaphorically breathtaking.

After the short walk we mounted some dodgy mountain bikes for some downhill action.  With less than good breaks it was cautious going but good fun and a nice break from feeling the effects of the altitude.

We stayed the night at Papa Gayo a STUNNING farm where we had the best room (for reasons not known to me). The place included an ensuite with bathtub with hot water, Jacuzzi, fire places in the rooms and dinner. It was by far the best place we have stayed on our trip and made us feel like never leaving. Felt so good after a night here.

The Amazon Jungle - Cuyabeno Reserve

Overall the Amazon was an amazing place where there are no river banks, the tress just hang in the water, everywhere you turn are new a wonderful creatures. The beautiful of this place is immense and even the giant creepy crawlies have a place and beauty about them, Whenever you are on the water you are escorted by brightly coloured birds and butterflies the echoes of monkeys in the trees and the knowledge that in the dark water beneath you are the anacondas, caimans, dolphins and manatees. In the jungle during the night beyond the river backs are the numerous large cats, anteaters and other weird and wonderful things. It is both what the jungle shows you and what it doesn’t that make this place one of a kind that truly teases the senses.

The 7 hour bus ride across the Andes was well worth the $8 as it offered us spectacular views and hair raising driving. We arrived in Lago Agrio in one piece and after a beer our nerves were somewhat settled. Every review of Lago Agrio we read said to get to your hotel as soon as possible and not leave until you are picked up from your tour company. We didn’t go anywhere but from our pavement seats at the restaurants it didn’t seem that bad.

Monday morning we were picked up for our tour to Samona Lodge, after the 2 ½ hour bus ride we arrived at the river in the POURING rain. Luckily it cleared for our 3 hour cruise down the river to the lodge.  We were spoilt on this first experience of the Amazon sighting Red Howler Monkeys, Spider Monkeys, Gorilla Monkeys, Cocoi (giant herons) and Anaconda.

The lodge was beautiful with lots of hammocks a suspended walk way between rooms. The beds and bathrooms were better than I expected and had some of the best hot water and pressure I have had in 4 months.

A trip to Laguna Grande in the evening where we swam in the Amazon spotted pink river dolphins and watched the sun set was a perfect end to the first day… not quite. We found that the tarantulas live in the roofs of where we sleep and I got to hold one J

What can only be described as a mud run was on the cards for day 2, it was part of the jungle trek… we were in mud up to our thighs, after the initial shock of being covered in mud it was actually quite enjoyable. I did my best attempt at washing my clothes in the river by hand much to the amusement of F. A spot of piranha fishing proved very enjoyable but without success for F and I but others caught some. What beautiful colourful fish.

The night jungle walk was one of my favourite parts of the trip. Standing in the dark listening to the noises of the jungle was amazing. It was black black and so noisy, it was such a special time to be with nature. You can discover just how many bugs there are at night and just how big they get.

The cultural activities that were planned for the next day were interesting if somewhat touristy. A Shaman visit resulted in one member of our group being treated by whipping stinging nettles across his back that subsequently resulted in large welts and a very red back. However, it was interesting to learn about evil spirits and the process to become a Shaman. At the other village we met we made yucca pancakes from scratch (meaning digging the plants out of the ground). A fascinating process of grating, drying, cooking and eating the yucca.

WE set out for some exercise the next day, meaning canoe but without motor – we have to paddle!!!! The Enchanted Lagoon is a protected area of the reserve where motor boats aren’t allowed, so it was incredibly tranquil to float through the reeds and listen to the sounds of the jungle from the water. We tried our hand at piranha fishing again with no luck, lots of bits and one hooked but couldn’t get it in the boat for the money shot that I so desperately wanted!!!! The water in the lagoon is so black due to the high tannin levels of the plants and the decomposition process, it made it quite strange swimming in water like that with no buoyancy. Juan our guide is an interesting sort with little to no vocal expression and a constant drilling of faster faster while we were paddling made for a less than relaxing return to camp at times.

The flight back to Quito on the final day was stunning, the mountains are so close and thankfully for me the plane wasn’t too small so I could look out the windows.

My Amazon check list

Red howler monkey

Spider monkey

Gorilla monkey

Caiman

Tucan

Cocoi

Pink river dolphin

Caintoad

Glassfrog

Tarantula

Condor

Anaconda

Kingfisher

Two toed sloth

Wood pecker

Hoatzin (smelly turkeys)

Owl

Piranhas

Cupachino spider

Scorpion spider

Ruby poison dart frog

Giant grasshoppers

Noisy nocturnal monkey

Long nosed bat

Tiger heron

Greater Ani

Yellow rumped Cacique

Firefly

Hawk

Red capped cardinal

Blue butterfly

Monk Saki Monkey

Dragonfly

Great Potoo

Flying Macaw

Pigme marmiquet

Woolly monkey

Galapagos

Day 2

We woke to the beautiful landscape of Puenta Pitt and a beach full of sealions. We went ashore and Billy our guide educated us about the mating practices of sealions and how now that the cubs are 3 months old the older male sealions have gone off to rest after taking care of the females during pregnancy and birth. We had a wonderful walk up to the top of the hill discovering Galapagos Doves, Lava Lizards, Red, Blue and Nazca Boobies and the Chatham Mockingbird. This must be the only place in the world where the word ‘boobies’ is used so frequently and with such excitement and it has nothing to do with any part of the female anatomy.

After the walk we went for a swim and were surrounded by sealions swimming around us and the younger ones playing with us. To our delight we also saw stingrays and the green sea turtle. It was such a magic experience and the animals are so friendly just as Darwin described them.

In the afternoon we sailed to Witch Hill which looks like somewhere you would find in the Whitsundays. It had white white sand beaches, clear turquoise water, black lava rocks – absolutely stunning. It was a little overcast so it wwas only a quick snorkel to say hello to some parrot fish. Two boat loads of American tourist arrived to disturb our peace but this inconvenience was curbed by my encounter with a baby sea iguana and some more mockingbirds.

Day 3

We stayed in the bay at Witch Hill the night to get in an early snorkel at Kicker Rock. This was the standout for me in the whole 8 days we were in the Galapagos. Kicker Rock is a well known dive site with. It is usual for the way it sticks out of the water, but I read it is the left overs from a crater. Anyways, the water plunges down the side of the rock making for a great location for aquatic life. I opted for a wetsuit – an hour in the deep water and I knew I would get cold. We weren’t disappointed as we jumped in the water we could immediately see  sharks directly beneath us. We swam around the rock and green sea turtles swam next to us without a care in the world. Sealions popped up from nowhere, schools of electric blue fish passed us by, and group of eagle rays swam around us. It was an out of this world experience with so many things to see and describe. Unfortunately, our underwater camera decided to break so we are going to have to get photos off other members of our group at a later date.

We left kicker Rock on an absolute high and after a short sail arrived at Sea lion Island another amazing location the Galapagos where Blue Footed Boobies nest on the ground next to nursing sea lions and neither disturb each other. We saw a mating dance between the blue footed boobie and chicks.  On top of all this we saw Pelicans dive bombing and hundreds of Marine Iguanas. This place is truly amazing.

We had an afternoon sail to Santa Cruz the biggest island in the Galapagos and boy was it quite a sail. We had a cross wind and a current going in the opposite direction. This resulted in some very rolly seas. I am lucky that I do not get sea sick and neither does F but this tested us. It was dangerous to move around the boat, at one stage we were lying on the top deck cold and needing to go to the bathroom but unable to. The boat staff were struggling to as the cooker and fridge fell over and the gas connection broke leaving with our chef an interesting challenge for making dinner.

Day 4

Today is a day on land, although I am now experiencing sea sickness on land but not at sea. I would rather be on the boat than off… interesting. We headed for the Charles Darwin Research Station it was really sad as Lonesome George had died 4 days before we arrived in the Galapagos, so his species is now extinct. The efforts they went to to try and get him to breed were incredible but the poor guy just wasn’t interested. At the research station we learnt all about their breeding programs and how they have changed through the years. We had a wonderful display of Darwins 14 finches and took amazing photos of Giant Tortoises, 

We had some time to wonder around the town and do some shopping so invested in a disposable underwater camera – will have to wait and see how those photos turn out when we get it developed at home. We spent the afternoon watching the final of the European Camps with a glass of gin in hand. We headed off into the highlands in the rain to see the giant tortoises in the wild at Chato Reserve and with communal gumboots (ekkk) we were not disappointed. A short stop on the way back to the boat saw us discovered some lava caves. Four members of our group left today and were replaced with loud Australians.

Day 5

After another night sail we arrived in Isabel and spent the day at the local Darwin Centre, exploring Lagoons and wandering the beaches. At the Darwin centre there were two blue footed boobies with broken wings. A girl on our boat was a vet and learnt that there was no vet that visited the island and no one working at the centre knew how to put the birds out of their misery or how to identify if they had broken wings. She had the gruesome task of killing the birds but became inspired into writing educational material so that volunteers coming to the Galapagos were better equipped to deal with the wildlife. We spent the morning exploring a volcanic island full of marine iguanas and went for a snorkle where I caught a glimpse of a Leatherback Turtle and man they are large.

Day 6

We awoke to the red sand beach created for scoria – it was out of this world. The short walk around the site unveiled a lagoon with a few flamingos and some spectacular views from the top. The snorkel around the rocks was rewarding with schools of colourful fish accompanying us wherever we went. In the afternoon we headed across to Santa Cruz and Dragons Hill to find some Land Iguanas and how beautiful they are. The sea crossing was amazing as we saw manta rays that were about 4meters wide and on the top of the surface, it was incredible as they glided underneath the boat.

Day 7

A boat ride through black turtle cove was a great way to start the day. We saw golden rays, sea turlets baby white tip sharks, masses of blue footed boobies and several other fish. The afternoon we headed back across to Santiago where we went for another snorkel and were not disappointed. The waters were so clear and we spotted a large white tipped shark sleeping in a cave. In the evening we went for a walk on Chinese Hat full of specular lava flows.

Day 8

It is such a shame to have to leave this majestic place, but I have had such a wonderful time and seen so many things.

Red footed boobie

Lava lizard

Marine Iguana

The Galapagos Islands

The boarder crossing aboard CIFA was a breeze, timings were not too bad but the direct part of the journey was something to be questioned. The direct bus stopped at every street corner once crossing into Guayaquil but it got us there on time and through some beautiful scenery. We knew we were in banana country and that it was watermelon season thats for sure.Ecuador is so much greener than Peru!!!!
Anyways, we woke up early on the 28th and headed for the airport ready for our flight to the Galapagos Islands. This is the best birthday present ever and I couldnt contain my excitement :) The flight was clear and the views spectacular as we approached the Galapagos. Without any problems we met our guide and headed to our 16 berth motor yatch the Darwin.  It was next to two big flash boats when we went aboard but it didnt distract from the Galapagos Islands. On the dock there were sealions and marine iguanas waiting to send us off.

After a delicious lunch we set off on a short trip to Mosquera, once we had anchored the frigate birds were everywhere and just off the boat a hammerhead shark swam by - unfortunetely I dont have the picture to prove it!!! We went shore on this white sand beach covered in sealions and had a couple of hours to explore at our own leisure. We stumbled across a skeleton - if you can identify what species it is i will be grateful. After a little snorkling is crystal clear water a baby sealion decided to frolic with us in the shallows. What a tough first day it was. However, the night sail to San Cristobal was a little rough and little sleep was had.

Frigate birds

Brown pelican in flight

Sunset on the first day

My best sealion inpersonation

Sally lightfoot crabs

From the plane

Daphne from the plane

Can anyone identify this skeleton for me please?

The crew had kindly prepared me a cake

Mancora

The overnight bus from Quito finally rolled into the sea side town of Mancora about 10.30 - turns out it is a 17 hour journey but the bus was comfortable and safe so it wasnt too bad. The Swiss owner of Kon Tiki met us as planned as drove us up the hill to the exquisite location that is Kon Tiki. It is bamboo structures on the hill top over looking the whole of Mancora with stunning views over the Pacific Ocean. F and I were glad to be at such a nice place after a long bus ride.
I found a Austrian bakery and had some delicious salad with real brown bread for lunch before heading down to the beach. Mancora's reputation is one of a party town but while we were there it was very sleepy and had a very relaxing vibe.
Our two night stay there consisted of eating, sleeping, drinking, walking and swimming. It was really tough to say the least but a beautiful location for a much needed rest, soak up some sun and look forward to the next part of our journey.