The Scared Valley, Inca Trail and Machu Picchu

I am so excited that we get to walk the Inca Trail into Machu Picchu, it is something I have wanted to do for such a long time now that it feels surreal to have rid of our large rucksacks and reduced our belongings to no more than 6kgs which the porters will carry. I have hired myself a
walking stick and inflatable thermarest mattress to ensure that I get some sleep and my knee survives the 4 days of steep ascents and descents. We meet our guide for the next five days Vladamir who has such a wonderful soft nature and we head off in the vans for our first stop a
Gap projects training local village women in traditional handicrafts. It is great that we get to pick up some local school children on the way and give them a lift to school so they don’t have to walk in the pouring rain. The weaving stop showed us the Alpacas and Llamas that are traditionally used for the fibre, the natural dying process and the finished products. I am a little sceptical in the fact that the goods, all look the same as in town and don’t really have a hand made feel or look to them. I feel like I am being herded through the tourist route and get to see little of the real Peru but more of the staged and contrived tourist route. It5 was a nice change after that to
head to our first Inca ruin of the day Intihuatana perched precariously high on the mountains above Pisac. The terraces and retaining walls of the Incas are truly incredible in the fact that they run all the way down to the valley floor below. The Inca’s used the terraces for agriculture and to study the growing climates of the 3000 types of potatoes and other crops. They knew what crops
would grow in which conditions based on this technology. The bus conveniently dropped us at another tourist market with more of the same stuff, F and I spent 5 minutes walking around before heading back to the bus fed up with the tourist trail we were on. We were told we would be stopping for lunch at a buffet and that it would cost us S 25 (about $12NZ) the group really don’t
like this lack of choice and being told where to eat and when, because you are completely separated from the local people and food. In saying that, when we arrived at the buffet it was incredible, soup, salad, about 10 main dishes and desert – we were both in food heaven as was the rest of the group. The last of our stops in the Sacred Valley was Ollantaytambo which is a surviving example of Inca city planning with narrow cobbled streets and open waterways in a grid pattern. The Inca complex that sits above the city is beautiful and still has surviving Inca water fountains and ceremonial cites that consists of 6 giant stones with small stones in the gaps to prevent any damage caused by earthquakes. On the opposite site of the valley is where the crops were kept because this is where the best wind was. The shelters were designed to have holes in the bottom facing the wind, so the wind would enter the building, circulate then exit the top to dry and preserve the food inside – these Inca’s were smart!!!! All the hill climbing today has both served as training for the Inca Trail and as a realisation that this is going to be hard and at altitude. Day one of the Inca Trail is the easiest and starts with a leisurely stroll along the river before a steep vertical climb before heading up the valley for our lunch stop. For our group of 12 walkers we had 22 porters including two chefs. We were blown away by our lunch stop as we were applauded in by the people who are carrying all our stuff, at least the porters packs are now limited to 20kgs each – it did feel ridiculous that they were applauding us. Warm water with soap was on hand to wash our hands before a delicious soup followed by trout and desert. I was hoping to lose weight on this hike but not at this rate. It was only a short walk after lunch to the camp site where our tents had been set up, just as we arrived so did the rain. It was very awkward as we have a dining tent to play cards in durig the rain and the porters sit outside huddled under their ponchos – we insisted that they come into the tent. The rain cleared before dinner so we could get some frizbee in J dinner was again a three course meal starting with asparagus soup and chicken. Day two was a wake up call at 5.30 after a night of little sleep to be greeted with a cup of coca tea delivered to our tent and a breakfast of eggs. We were told this would be the hardest day and it lived up to its reputation. It was uphill for 5 hours to the highest pass on the trail. It was self determination as it was easier to keep going than keep stopping. I made the first rest point after 45 minutes took on some more snacks to keep me going then continued up the hill to the second point and the last chance to buy anything until Machu Picchu. The second uphill was gruelling but rewarding when we reached the rest point – we waited until we had all reached at which stage
it was over an hour and we have put back on all our layers and were chilly. The final ascent was the worst especially the last 100m of steps where F waited for me and we walked to the top together. It was such an accomplishment and a wonderful view over the valley. After an hour rest we were ready to head down to the next camp site. As we crossed the pass the weather changed and it was freezing, the hail started and the rain accompanied us for the rest of the journey into camp. The stairs were treacherous and it was a very slow journey down and the walking stick came in useful. I was so glad to reach camp and be greeted by our fabulous porters. On the trail we have tea time at 4.30 with hot drinks and biscuits, it is great. When you have lunch at 2, tea time at 4.30 dinner at 6.30 and then in bed by 8 is makes for a very intense eating afternoon. After dinner the chef produced a cake – that was divine. Day three is the longest day on the trail and it started with pancakes for breakfast with caramel drizzle in the shape of the mountain and the G adventures logo. We headed uphill again for a change to the first Inca site of the day. For then on it rained and we waited at the next pass for everyone in the pouring rain by which point everyone was freezing cold and very wet. I found a new love for my gortex jacket and my walking pole. We weren’t stopping for everyone, the plans changed and lunch was moved to the camp site
and a tea tent was set up instead. We all came in soaking wet, cold and huddled by the gas stove waiting for the popcorn. 2000 stairs waited for us on a 1200m descent into the final campsite on the trail. We knocked off the 16km journey in 5 and a half hours and were happily greeted by clearing skies and warmth and finally some views apart from clouds. The wet shoes came off, the tents were adorned with wet clothes to be dried and we waited for the rest f the group.
Our two guides and three remaining group members arrived 3 and a half hours after we did as we were amongst a state of panic about what had happened to them, it was a relief to see everyone achieve at the end of day three and it was a joyous atmosphere in camp. We took the additional 10 minute stroll to another Inca site to enjoy the good weather and views. Tonight was the last
dinner with the porters and after yet another delicious dinner complete with jelly we got to thank them for all their hard work. The porters worked tirelessly for before we got up carrying our stuff, putting up and taking down tents, cooking food, boiling water and making sure we have everything we could possible need. I have the utmost respect for the profession, they run these
mountains and smile all the way. It was great to hear that we shad a designated garbage man to ensure that we took off all our rubbish off the trail. It is said that the trails are meant to cleanse the soul in order for the arrival into Machu Picchu, well I am certainly feeling fit and
the rain has kept me moderately clean I ready for my 3.45am wake up call and 1 hour walk to the sun gate for sun rise. It is a 42km walk that has taken us 4 days but it was worth it. The walk to the sun gate was more like a procession and people queue at the checkpoint to be the first through the gates at 5.30am. Along the way after another night of heavy rain we came across a new landslide. It was a daunting crossing as two guides helped us through the rubble while
someone else was spotting for falling rocks. We were greeted at the sun gate with a view of mist over Machu Picchu. We were guided around the site by Vlad and at the end of the tour the rain finally cleared and Machu Picchu came out in all its glory and took my breathe away and made the four day hike worthwhile. The civil engineering of the Incas is incredible and it is all showcased in Machu Picchu